“Deconstruction Fashion: The Making of Unfinished, Decomposing and Re-Assembled Clothes”
Maison Margiela Fall 2017 Couture
Deconstruction Fashion of the 80's
Deconstruction Fashion 2015-2017
As a fashion designer, I had to be aware of the different trends which appear on the runway, season after season, year after year. Most trends come and go, some are not even memorable. However, the one trend that is constant and never seems to get old is Fashion Deconstruction. This has been and will continue to be a big inspiration for many designers, including myself.
Fashion Deconstruction is a deliberate attempt to make a garment appear raw and imperfect, a form of Anti-Fashion statement if you will. There is a whole philosophy behind this trend, but I am just going to skim the surface. ( Read more about it Here )
I was introduced to deconstructed fashion in the late 80's while working in New York and traveling to Europe for design research. It was during this period that the Fashion Deconstruction movement gained popularity with Japanese fashion house Commes Des Garcons, French fashion house of Maison Martin Margiela, and the emergence of the Antwerp 6; the six designers from Belgium that included Dries Van Note, and Ann Demeulemeester.
Antwerp 6 : Ann Demeulemeester, Dirk Van Saene, Marina Yee, Dries Van Noten, Walter Van Beirendonck, Dirk Bikkembergs
One of the most famous Deconstructive Fashion Designer was the Elusive Martin Margiela. Not only were his anti status driven collections clever, his was also an enigma for never holding any press conference or photographed for any magazines, unlike his contemporaries. I found myself in a Margiela shop in Paris in the late 80's or early 90's while traveling for design research. I was mesmerized and in awe of the garments displayed before me. His designs were so new and forward; for example, a sweater with removable arms, garments with unfinished hems and seams finished to the outside. However, as "deconstructed" as the collection was, there was a strong reverence to traditional tailoring as well. Disassembling a perfectly assembled garment, the contrast of making something classic in a whole new unconventional way really attracted me. That was when I fell in love with the concept of Deconstructed Fashion. Margiela was my hero and I wanted to own those Margiela pieces but of course I wasn't making enough money at the time to afford them. ( Click here to see video documentary Martin Margiela: The Artist is Absent )
Today I find reference of Deconstruction Fashion everywhere, on modern day runways and in the everyday clothes we wear. Ironically, this Anti Fashion movement has become part of today's fashion Norm. Deconstruction details are found from high end collections to clothing inspired by street fashion. The line has blurred between perfection and imperfection.
"Pro" and "Anti" establishment have always existed side by side in our society, probably from the beginning of time if you believe in Adam and Eve. This dichotomy resonates in fashion. The original concept of Fashion Deconstruction may have faded with time, but the visual result from this movement is here to stay.
Deconstruction 2017 casual daywear